Post by AlterInfluence on Dec 4, 2003 0:15:16 GMT -5
Links I have found to be helpful
www.madcocker.com/articles.asp
Timing, disassembly, and sweet-spotting a reg.
www.paintballravi.com/
Information on Autococker parts as well as many great tech tips.
www.moodypaintball.com/pages/tech/trouble.htm
Trouble shooting for the less experienced.
www.systemx.com/files/pro20.jpg
A wonderful picture of a cocker in all its wonderment.
www.paintballguru.com/autococker/
Some good articles on trigger jobs, efficiency, and low pressure.
_____________________________________________
Random stuff
(Somebody did this somewhere else, and I though it was a good idea)
First, the middle barb is always the feed line—it leads to the LP reg.
The following are described by the trigger frame, either hinge of slider, and the number of o-rings on the 3way shaft. The “rear” is the part closest to the body of the gun.
Hinge w/ 2 o-rings:
Front of ram to the front barb on the 3way.
Rear of the ram to the rear barb on the 3way.
Slider w/ 2 o-rings:
Rear of the ram to the front barb on the 3way.
Front of the ram to the rear barb on the 3way.
Slider w/ 3 o-rings:
Rear of the ram to the rear barb on the 3way.
Front of the ram to the front barb on the 3way.
Hinge w/ 3 o-rings:
Rear of the ram to the front barb on the 3way.
Front of the ram to the rear barb on the 3way.
_____________________________________________
Cocking rods come loose all the time, a little BLUE loctite on the threads will fix this. If it gets stuck, take the cocking rod nut off. Screw two 10-32 thread nuts onto the rod and tighten them against each other. You can then use the nut closest to the gun to get the rod out.
Use only paintball gun oil in your gun. If you so desire, you can put shocker lube (Dow) in your 3way, although this isn't required. Lube your gun before every day of play by placing a few drops of oill in the ASA before you gas up the gun.
Use the same urethane rings that are on your tank for your IVG. The black ones don't work well. Putting a light coat of oil on the o-ring can really help keep the o-ring in one piece.
If you don't have a valve tool, don't mess with your valve. You will screw it up.
If you put too much loctite on a screw, heating the area up with a small flame (like a lighter) can loosen the bonds. Be careful when doing this as the o-rings don't like heat, and too much heat can hurt your gun or finish.
If your 3way leaks, turn the pressure up on your LPR.
Chopping happenes when you shortstroke, meaning you don't pull the trigger all the way back and release it fully. When this happens, the bolt doesn't open or close all the way so it chops a partially fed paintball. If the gun is set up right, the cocking pressure can be low enough to pinch the paint instead of chopping it.
To make your trigger better......
Polish the sear and trigger plate. Cut the trigger spring, or on some hinges, take the trigger spring completely out. The springs can also be replaced with lighter ones to make for a lighter trigger pull. If the springs are too light they will not allow for a reliable trigger return, so the trigger will get stuck back often. The best way to get the lightest pull is to test different springs and see what works.
_____________________________________________
LPR--the small regulator that sticks out the front of your gun along with those small little hoses and stuff.
3way--the smallest of the pieces on your front block. It is a valve that operate the ram.
Ram--a piston that connects to the pump arm and ultimatly the back block. This piece cocks the gun.
IVG--the plug in the back of the gun. It located in the lower tube behind the back block.
Cocking Rod--not to be confused with the pump arm, the cocking rod is the rod that sticks out of the back of the gun. This is connected to the hammer and is the instrument by which the back block resets the hammer.
Sear--a small piece that "catches" the hammer, holding it in the rearmost position. When you pull the trigger, the sear moves and releases the hammer to strike the valve.
Actuator Rod--the rod that connects the trigger to the 3way. This is an external part located along the right sode of the gun. When timing a cocker, this piece is adjusted to determine when the 3way valve is activated.
Pump Arm--the long rod that runs the entire length of the gun body. It connects the ram to the back block.
Front Block--the piece that the LPR, ram, and 3way connect to. Although this is technically just the block attachment piece itself, the front block can also mean the entire from block kit including the LRP, ram, and 3way.
Back Block--the piece tha makes an autococker special. It's the thing that moves in and out on the back part of the gun. It holds the bolt and cocks the hammer via the cocking rod.
_____________________________________________
Firing sequence of a cocker.
From the start, the hammer is cocked, the bolt closed, and the back block in the forward position.
When the trigger is pulled, the sear releases the hammer, striking the valve. When the hammer strikes the valve air is released into the bolt and ultimatly shooting the paintball out the barrel. Shortly after the hammer is released and the ball fired, the trigger activates the 3way valve via the actuator rod, initiating the cocking sequence. The 3way operates the ram which in turn moves the back block back. The back block recocks the hammer by way of the cocking rod and moves the bolt to open the breech and load another paintball. On the trigger release, the 3way reverses the ram and brings the back block to the closed, resting, position.
_____________________________________________
Autococker myths:
The autococker does not shoot any farther than any other gun. With the velocity, projectile, and weather the same, every gun will shoot the same distance.
Low pressure is more efficeint. While this is mostly true, a lower pressure doesn't always mean an efficient marker. The goal is to make your marker more efficient, which most of the time leads to a lowering of the pressure.
Autocockers are more accurate. While they are accurate, they are not more accurate than another gun. From the bench mounted position, they will perform the same as another gun with the same barrel and paint. In the hands of a player; however, they have little to no recoil leading to a more steady firing platform.
Links everyone should know (let me know the ones I missed)
www.warpig.com
www.pbstar.com
www.forceofnature.com
News, articles, and other information.
www.docsmachine.com
This man is brilliant. The best custom jobs I've ever seen.
airsoldier.com/~haveblue/tech/autococker/
A technical archive of the most detailed kind.
pbunion.proboards25.com/index.cgi?board=MHW&action=display&thread=1070917546
A very complete list of links.
_____________________________________________
The rules.
pbunion.proboards25.com/index.cgi?board=rules&action=display&thread=1070176222
More to come.
www.madcocker.com/articles.asp
Timing, disassembly, and sweet-spotting a reg.
www.paintballravi.com/
Information on Autococker parts as well as many great tech tips.
www.moodypaintball.com/pages/tech/trouble.htm
Trouble shooting for the less experienced.
www.systemx.com/files/pro20.jpg
A wonderful picture of a cocker in all its wonderment.
www.paintballguru.com/autococker/
Some good articles on trigger jobs, efficiency, and low pressure.
_____________________________________________
Random stuff
(Somebody did this somewhere else, and I though it was a good idea)
First, the middle barb is always the feed line—it leads to the LP reg.
The following are described by the trigger frame, either hinge of slider, and the number of o-rings on the 3way shaft. The “rear” is the part closest to the body of the gun.
Hinge w/ 2 o-rings:
Front of ram to the front barb on the 3way.
Rear of the ram to the rear barb on the 3way.
Slider w/ 2 o-rings:
Rear of the ram to the front barb on the 3way.
Front of the ram to the rear barb on the 3way.
Slider w/ 3 o-rings:
Rear of the ram to the rear barb on the 3way.
Front of the ram to the front barb on the 3way.
Hinge w/ 3 o-rings:
Rear of the ram to the front barb on the 3way.
Front of the ram to the rear barb on the 3way.
_____________________________________________
Cocking rods come loose all the time, a little BLUE loctite on the threads will fix this. If it gets stuck, take the cocking rod nut off. Screw two 10-32 thread nuts onto the rod and tighten them against each other. You can then use the nut closest to the gun to get the rod out.
Use only paintball gun oil in your gun. If you so desire, you can put shocker lube (Dow) in your 3way, although this isn't required. Lube your gun before every day of play by placing a few drops of oill in the ASA before you gas up the gun.
Use the same urethane rings that are on your tank for your IVG. The black ones don't work well. Putting a light coat of oil on the o-ring can really help keep the o-ring in one piece.
If you don't have a valve tool, don't mess with your valve. You will screw it up.
If you put too much loctite on a screw, heating the area up with a small flame (like a lighter) can loosen the bonds. Be careful when doing this as the o-rings don't like heat, and too much heat can hurt your gun or finish.
If your 3way leaks, turn the pressure up on your LPR.
Chopping happenes when you shortstroke, meaning you don't pull the trigger all the way back and release it fully. When this happens, the bolt doesn't open or close all the way so it chops a partially fed paintball. If the gun is set up right, the cocking pressure can be low enough to pinch the paint instead of chopping it.
To make your trigger better......
Polish the sear and trigger plate. Cut the trigger spring, or on some hinges, take the trigger spring completely out. The springs can also be replaced with lighter ones to make for a lighter trigger pull. If the springs are too light they will not allow for a reliable trigger return, so the trigger will get stuck back often. The best way to get the lightest pull is to test different springs and see what works.
_____________________________________________
LPR--the small regulator that sticks out the front of your gun along with those small little hoses and stuff.
3way--the smallest of the pieces on your front block. It is a valve that operate the ram.
Ram--a piston that connects to the pump arm and ultimatly the back block. This piece cocks the gun.
IVG--the plug in the back of the gun. It located in the lower tube behind the back block.
Cocking Rod--not to be confused with the pump arm, the cocking rod is the rod that sticks out of the back of the gun. This is connected to the hammer and is the instrument by which the back block resets the hammer.
Sear--a small piece that "catches" the hammer, holding it in the rearmost position. When you pull the trigger, the sear moves and releases the hammer to strike the valve.
Actuator Rod--the rod that connects the trigger to the 3way. This is an external part located along the right sode of the gun. When timing a cocker, this piece is adjusted to determine when the 3way valve is activated.
Pump Arm--the long rod that runs the entire length of the gun body. It connects the ram to the back block.
Front Block--the piece that the LPR, ram, and 3way connect to. Although this is technically just the block attachment piece itself, the front block can also mean the entire from block kit including the LRP, ram, and 3way.
Back Block--the piece tha makes an autococker special. It's the thing that moves in and out on the back part of the gun. It holds the bolt and cocks the hammer via the cocking rod.
_____________________________________________
Firing sequence of a cocker.
From the start, the hammer is cocked, the bolt closed, and the back block in the forward position.
When the trigger is pulled, the sear releases the hammer, striking the valve. When the hammer strikes the valve air is released into the bolt and ultimatly shooting the paintball out the barrel. Shortly after the hammer is released and the ball fired, the trigger activates the 3way valve via the actuator rod, initiating the cocking sequence. The 3way operates the ram which in turn moves the back block back. The back block recocks the hammer by way of the cocking rod and moves the bolt to open the breech and load another paintball. On the trigger release, the 3way reverses the ram and brings the back block to the closed, resting, position.
_____________________________________________
Autococker myths:
The autococker does not shoot any farther than any other gun. With the velocity, projectile, and weather the same, every gun will shoot the same distance.
Low pressure is more efficeint. While this is mostly true, a lower pressure doesn't always mean an efficient marker. The goal is to make your marker more efficient, which most of the time leads to a lowering of the pressure.
Autocockers are more accurate. While they are accurate, they are not more accurate than another gun. From the bench mounted position, they will perform the same as another gun with the same barrel and paint. In the hands of a player; however, they have little to no recoil leading to a more steady firing platform.
Links everyone should know (let me know the ones I missed)
www.warpig.com
www.pbstar.com
www.forceofnature.com
News, articles, and other information.
www.docsmachine.com
This man is brilliant. The best custom jobs I've ever seen.
airsoldier.com/~haveblue/tech/autococker/
A technical archive of the most detailed kind.
pbunion.proboards25.com/index.cgi?board=MHW&action=display&thread=1070917546
A very complete list of links.
_____________________________________________
The rules.
pbunion.proboards25.com/index.cgi?board=rules&action=display&thread=1070176222
More to come.
